Stay Puffed My Friends Part 3: America

The history

In the late 1800s, marshmallow root began being phased out of the recipe altogether and was completely replaced with gum arabic. The marshmallow root had a distinctive flavor that not everyone enjoyed; substituting the more neutral-flavored gum arabic for it led to a cleaner sweet taste (Eléments de Pharmacie théorique et pratique). Additionally, gum arabic produced a similar medicinal effect when it came to treating ailments like a sore throat or cough because it also had mucilage in it. Between the gum arabic and the starch mold mogul marshmallows were almost the perfect confection. There was just one problem: gum arabic was still an expensive product.

Initially, there were no viable alternatives to gum arabic. Gelatin was very popular in cooking due to its nutritional value, especially for the French during the Napoleonic wars (What’s Cooking America).   However, during this time, it was a very laborious process to extract gelatin, as it required a lot of boiling and waiting, not unlike the process of extracting the sap from marshmallow root. Gelatin also had a very distinct flavor profile, making it unsuitable for desserts at the time (What’s Cooking America).

This all began to change in 1845 when two different companies developed patents for powdered gelatin. The J and G Company in Edinburgh, Scotland, patented a pre-packaged, unflavored dried gelatin, while American Peter Cooper patented a ‘portable gelatin’ powder (What’s Cooking America). These ready-made—just add water—gelatins were not an initial hit. It took until the end of the century for people to begin using these gelatins and realize their value for desserts.

It wasn’t until 1894 when yet another refined gelatin product was on the market that things finally changed. Charles Knox, of what would become Knox Gelatin, developed refined flavorless gelatin that was produced in sheets (What's Cooking America). This resulted in a superior product, and the use of dessert gelatins began to take off.

In the late 19th century, the concept of “marshmallow” began to be associated with meringue, not the marshmallow plant. By this point, no marshmallow root was involved in the production of the marshmallow candy. Recipes for marshmallow cream, marshmallow frosting, and other such desserts began to show up in cookbooks by the late 1800s, such as this 1895 recipe for marshmallow cake:

(Table Talk)

Here we can see “marshmallow” is more a reference to the food’s fluffy white appearance and texture than a reference to the root of the marshmallow plant. These recipes are, at their base, meringues.

At this time, marshmallows were being made with less and less marshmallow root, especially in America. By the early 20th century, it was not uncommon to see marshmallows with no actual marshmallow in it at all. Once it was discovered that you could replace the distinctively (and, some would say, offensively flavored) marshmallow root with a flavorless alternative that was also less labor-intensive and expensive to produce, the marshmallow plant was completely pushed aside, and the sweet marshmallow-less confection began its climb into the heart of America.

Marshmallows were reportedly first mass-produced in America by Joseph B. Demerath, founder of the Rochester Marshmallow Company. The Rochester Marshmallow Company began in 1895, pre-dating the marshmallow craze of the 20th century. While it is impossible to say whether this factory was the root cause of the sweet's popularity, it was definitely a contributor. The factory's production, using the starch mogul method, allowed marshmallows to be mass-produced and distributed all over the region, making marshmallows cheaper, and more easily accessible (The Nibble). By the turn of the century, copycat companies were popping up, and marshmallows were being sold as penny candy all over the country. This was one of the first times the confection was being sold exclusively as candy, and not as a medicine.

Americans loved the softy, chewy confection.  And once the marshmallow began to gain popularity in the 20th century, their love, which some might deem excessive, began to show through. This was when things began to get weird. The marshmallow started to transform from a food in its own right to an ingredient in other foods, with some genuinely disgusting results, showing up in some distinct recipes that might give modern-day consumers pause.

In a 1913 edition of Table Talk, a cooking magazine, an article by Eva Alice Miller, appeared titled, "Marshmallow Mixtures." The article was about the incredibly versatile things you can do with marshmallows. These ranged from the sweet recipes that almost make sense—marshmallow on half shell (a pear dessert), marshmallow fruit salad, marshmallow almond whip, and the classic toasted marshmallow—to the truly repulsive marshmallow omelet, which as the name describes, is an egg-based sweet omelet (gross).

In 1924, Mary Chambers published Breakfasts, Luncheons and Dinners: How to Plan Them, How to Serve Them, How to Behave at Them—a Book for School and Home.  Within the text was a recipe for a shepherd’s pie with a marshmallow crust (even worse). While I have not eaten meat in nearly two decades, I just cannot imagine this was a pleasant combination.

The travesties of cooking didn’t end there. In 1927 with the rise in popularity of marshmallows, the California Lima Bean Council decided to hop on the “disgusting marshmallow recipe” boat. The Council ran ads featuring a dish of baked lima beans topped with bacon and marshmallow, with the promise that “you’ll like them even better served these tempting ways” (seriously, who thought this was a good idea). This was truly a troubled times time for marshmallows and cooking in America.

It wasn’t all bad, though. The same year a marshmallow cultural icon was born. The 1927 book, Tramping and Trailing with the Girl Scouts, featured the first recorded recipe for the “some more,” so named because it leaves the eater wanting some more. The classic recipe of graham crackers, chocolate, and a toasted marshmallow is still a staple in Scouting events, camping trips, and summer campfire gatherings.

The 1930s also saw the rise of another modern-day seasonal American favorite, the sweet potato casserole.

“Marshmallow eventually graduated to the main course. Sweet potato with marshmallow topping still makes annual appearances on thanksgiving across the land. In a 1930s variant, the clever hostess would surround a marshmallow center with a mashed sweet potato patty, roll in crushed cereal flakes, and bake. ”

— Candy: A Century of Panic and Pleasure 149

While this sweet main dish claimed a spot on many American tables, today's version is usually more of a casserole-style. It typically includes cubed, or lightly smashed sweet potato, sometimes with the addition of cinnamon sugar, maple syrup, or nuts, and topped with marshmallows and baked until the marshmallows are soft and golden.

The next great marshmallow manufacturing innovation came in 1948 with the invention of the marshmallow extrusion process. In this process, marshmallow is forced through a tube in the desired form and cut into pieces. The individual treats are usually still coated in starch to allow them to set better and to decrease stickiness. This process allowed production to become even more efficient and is what gives contemporary cylindrical marshmallows their shape. This is the same process companies such as Jett-Puff still use today (Campfire Marshmallows), providing the inexpensive, sweet treat to people across the USA.

Some might define Americans’ obsession with marshmallows excessive. In fact, the 2014 edition of the Oxford Companion to Food does just that.

“[marshmallow] is a versatile substance, which displayed its versatility to maximum (some would say excessive) extent in the USA in the 1930s to 1960s, when it occurred surprisingly often in recipe books, for example as an ingredient for salads, in fillings and toppings for cakes and desserts, and as toasted marshmallows, crisp outside and melting soft within. ”

— The Oxford Companion to Food 497

It is true that Americans’ obsession with the sweet treat is astounding. On average, Americans consume 90 million pounds of marshmallows each year (National Confectioners Association). The town of Ligonier, Indiana even hosts an annual festival entirely centered around marshmallows. The marshmallow is also a treat loved and consumed throughout history and across different parts of the globe. While the confection today is different from its predecessors, its sweet, sticky hold on people all over the world will never cease.

The Recreation

I had lofty aspirations for this recreation. I am vegetarian, and I had dreams of finding a simple, few ingredient recipes for vegan marshmallows, which I could share in triumph with the masses.

That is not what happened.

The modern marshmallow is noticeably different from its predecessors, both in look and texture.

Honey Marshmallow, Pate de Guimauve, Gelatin Marshmallow

While the honey marshmallow candy is dense with just a little chew, pâte de guimuave is noticeably lighter and fluffier. It does, however, retain a bit of its wetness. It pulls apart, and even when coated with powdered sugar, can still be sticky (were I to make it again, I would pipe them individually to allow a skin to form on each piece). It does not hold its form, and when cut can slump. All this in comparison with the modern, gelatin marshmallow-free marshmallow. They are fluffy, yes, but also firm. They squish but break when pulled apart.

I tried many techniques to achieve this. One was to use the pâte de guimuave ingredients but a modern marshmallow technique (pouring the hot sugar over the egg whites in a stand mixer.) I subbed out marshmallow extract, for powdered marshmallow root. It worked really well and took less time. But you end up with a pate de guimauve style marshmallow, not a modern one. And spending $13 on gum Arabic for each batch is cost-prohibitive.

I next played around with modern marshmallow recipes, subbing in Agar-Agar, to no avail. The agar-agar simply does not have enough hold.

I tried subbing in aquafaba for egg whites and doing a meringue-based marshmallow. Again, it kind of works, but you end up with a dense marshmallow and still need additional stabilizers.

Finally, I was forced to admit it. There is no easy vegan substitute for the marshmallow. Gelatin is the perfect binder. It is a stabilizer and a protein. It takes the place of the egg whites and the gum and does the job better. Unflavored gelatin is truly a marvel of modern food technology. And it is cost-effective. A pack with enough gelatin for two batches of marshmallow only cost two dollars.

That being said, working with gelatin, something that as a vegetarian I have literally never done before and doubt I will ever again, felt more like a science experiment than cooking. When you use gelatin powder, you have to "bloom" it. Soaking it in water to activate it. It takes only a few minutes, and the entire thing turns to a hard gelatinize mass. This is what gives you the base for your marshmallow. I found that when cooking it, I noticed a smell (my meat-eating husband did not). And the mixture before it cooled, seemed unnatural almost like a shaving foam. It was, however, straightforward to work with.

A basic marshmallow is very easy and only contains three ingredients:

• Sugar

• Water

• Gelatin

A pinch of salt and vanilla extract helps round out the flavor as well but isn't strictly necessary.

Once you bloom your gelatin, you mix it and your water and sugar in a pan, bring the contents to a boil on medium heat and cook until your liquid reaches hard-ball stage or until when a spoon is dipped in, a long thread comes out. I thought this part would be more finicky than it actually was. Mine technically never reached hard-ball stage but turned just fine. And I saw many people who barely took theirs to soft-ball and also turned out okay. The forgiving nature of gelatin.

Pour the entire contents into a stand mixer and beat for about 10 min. Pour onto your surface, or into a pan. It will be stiff, so I put a little oil on my hands and patted it down to form a more even hunk.

That's it. That is modern marshmallows. Quick. Easy and relatively painless, though not vegetarian or vegan.

I did find a great recipe for vegan marshmallows, though.

Here is what you do. You go to Trader Joe’s. Go to the packaged goods section. You buy their marshmallows and use those instead. That’s it.

Are there recipes for vegan recipes online? Yeah. Of course. And some are good. But the number of ingredients you need just isn't worth it. Buy the Trader Joe’s ones.

Or make these all sugar gelatin filled marshmallows.

Leaning tower of marshmallow

All sugar marshmallow

This is a simple, easy marshmallow recipe. You will get light, fluffy marshmallows each time.

Cook time: 20 min active, 3 hours cooling

Servings: 24-30 marshmallows

Ingredients

• ½ cup water + 2 tablespoons Gelatin

• ½ cup water

• 2 cups of sugar

Optional:

• Pinch salt

• ½ teaspoon flavoring extract

And/or

• 2 Tablespoons Cocoa powder

Instructions

1.     Prepare a marble slab or baking sheet by sprinkling it with powdered sugar or starch. If using a pan, coating with oil first helps to coat the sides with powder.

2.     Combine ½ cup water and gelatin in a small container.

3.     In a medium pot, mix sugar and, if using, cocoa powder. Pour in gelatin mixture.  Then add an additional ½ cup water. Bring mixture to a rolling boil over medium heat.

4.     Boil until the mixture reaches hard-ball stage.

5.      Once the mixture reaches hard-ball stage, pour contents into the stand mixer. Beat on low for 2-3 min, then turn up to high heat until mixture has at least doubled. About 10 min.

6.     Using a ruby spatula, transfer contents to starch covered surface or pan. If large peaks form and do not level out, put a little oil in your hand, and gently press down to create an even surface.

7.     Allow the marshmallow to set for at least 3 hours. Then cut and toss with additional starch or powdered sugar and save in airtight containers.

Stay Puffed My Friends Part 2: France and Pâte De Guimauve

In the Middle Ages, marshmallows continued to be used throughout North Africa, Europe, and Asia. As mentioned in the last post, the marshmallow was used as an ingredient in halva. It was also steeped in water to make a tea and continued to be used for a variety of medicinal purposes. In medieval Europe, the root of the marshmallow was candied and eaten. This treat would have been similar in texture to candied ginger root. While this is undoubtedly a sweet treat, it is not a marshmallow.

The true precursor to the modern marshmallow started in France as a confection known as pâte de guimauve. It arrived on the scene between the late 1700s and early 1800s. The oldest recipe I found dates back to 1757. Pâte de guimauve is a French confection said to have originally been comprised of sugar, egg whites, and marshmallow root extract. The mixture was functionally an unbaked meringue left to harden.  The addition of marshmallow root gives it a somewhat soft and chewy texture. Often other flavors, such rosewater, would be added to the mixture. Rosewater was an incredibly popular flavoring because at the time it was a by-product of making rose petal perfume. Likewise, orange blossom water (which I will be using my recreation) was a byproduct of making orange blossom essential oils. Our ancestors did not like to waste things.

Perhaps unsurprisingly given its medicinal history, pâte de guimauve was originally developed as a health lozenge, with many recipes showing up in books of medicine and giving instructions as to when to take them (Eléments de Pharmacie théorique et pratique). This early French marshmallow was used to relieve throat aches, as well as being ‘pectoral,’ or related to chest or lung disease (A Cyclopædia of Several Thousand Practical Receipts), the same medicinal purposes for which it had been used for thousands of years. And, just like in previous eras, the marshmallow became a popular confection.

This 19th-century popularity caused the demand for the marshmallow to skyrocket. There were only two problems: it was time-consuming, and expensive to make. The process of extracting the marshmallow sap, as we know, takes 12 hours. By the late 1700s, this hasn't changed. Instructions for making marshmallow candies still include 12 hours of soaking and prepping the extract. 

At this point the meringue still has to be made by hand-beating egg whites, adding a hot sugar marshmallow syrup, and then continuing to beat the mixture to incorporate and keep the meringue light. Again, this was all done by hand. The mixture would then take at least another six hours to properly set. AND THEN the pâte de guimauve would still need to be cut and shaped. At this point, pâte de guimauve became a two-day long endeavor for confectioners. If anything were to go wrong during this process, it would result in the entire batch being ruined, and the potential of up to two days of wasted efforts.

Confectioners were under pressure to produce a fluffy gummy treat for the masses. This led to the addition of gum arabic, a product made from acacia tree sap, into the mix. Adding the gum provided much more stability, giving it body, and more bounce than just the marshmallow root could provide. Additionally, the preparation of gum arabic did not take nearly as much time as the marshmallow root.

Most sources claim that the original pâte de guimauve consisted of exclusively marshmallow (root), sugar, egg whites, and flavoring. I disagree. All the recipes I have found, even those dating back to the 18th century (which I'd like to note is earlier than many sources even think pâte de guimauve existed) include gum arabic. Is it possible that there were versions without this additive? Sure. But it seems the most common and documented way to make pâte de guimauve was with gum Arabic.  

While the addition of gum arabic made the recipe faster, easier, and more reliable, this ingredient came at a price. Literally. Gum arabic was incredibly expensive and had to be imported from Southern Arabia and Western Asia. And while it did ease the reliance on marshmallow root to form the confection, confectioners continued to use the root, which meant the process still took two days to complete.

With the price and production time crushing on confectioners, it became harder and harder for them to keep up with public demand. Almost a century after the introduction of pâte de guimauve, the late 1800s saw the invention of the Starch Mogul system of candy production. The system was used by coating candy molds with a layer of starch powder, such as corn or potato. This allowed a more liquid substance to be poured into the candy molds, and once set, extracted without the substance sticking to the mold and falling apart. This method gave confectioners the ability to create larger volumes of marshmallows as they no longer had to cut and individually shape each piece. This in turn made marshmallow far more accessible to the general public.

The Re-Creation

Luckily for me, there is not a lot of guesswork that goes into a classic recipe for pâte de guimauve. Unluckily, they are mostly in French. Luckily for me again, my mother majored in history and French in college, and currently works as a technical writer! What more could I ask for?

The following recipe is the one my mother kindly translated for me. Everyone say thank you to mama Nichols! (And if you have complaints on the translation, please bring them up with her.)

Original French Recipe

I found a variety of recipes that I could have chosen to make the marshmallow. I chose this one, because of all the recipes it seemed to contain the most detailed instructions. For example, this recipe still relies on the traditional meringue method of mixing your egg whites into the sugar syrup bit by bit. Other recipes were not as clear, some would simply say “make a meringue” and leave it at that. Since we are going for a true reproduction, I wanted as much instruction as possible.

That being said, I did end up making a few modifications to the recipe.

For this attempt, I used dried marshmallow root, not fresh. As I did this in January in Pittsburgh, fresh marshmallow root could not be found. In order to rectify this, I needed to find out what the weight difference between dried marshmallow root and fresh was. If I did a straight weight to weight substitution I could end up with way more marshmallow than I intended. I finally settled on using the weight of dried vs fresh ginger as a comparison, as they are similar roots. I found the weight difference is that of 1 to 4, dried to fresh, so I quartered the amount of marshmallow, giving me 31.25 grams.

Next, I only had access to powdered gum arabic, not chunked. I thought this would be more of a problem than it was. Powdered gum arabic is just the chunks that have then been crushed into powder form. It dissolves faster and easier than its whole form. So yes, in a way I am taking the easy way out by using this, but also it is a straight weight to weight equivalent, and since 19th century France is ahead of 21st century America when it comes to cooking and their ingredients are in weight (not volume) it was an easy conversion.

My next question when approaching the recipe was about the sugar. While France is known for their excellent use of sugar, there is a bit of a complicated history when it comes to France’s sugar source. The brief explanation is that during the reign of Napoléon the British stopped the import of sugar into France. Sugar cane became too expensive and difficult to acquire, leaving France without a key ingredient for their baked goods. Then, in the early 1800s, Napoléon was presented with sugar made from sugar beets. He was so impressed he had thousands of acres planted with sugar beets, and sugar was back on the shelves and more attainable than ever. However, after his death sugar cane once again became available for purchase, and after a peak in the 1830s sugar beet production went back down. As this recipe is from 1847, it could have been made with beet sugar or cane sugar. I am using cane sugar as the sugar is the prominent ingredient and flavor. However, either will work and either will give you a traditional white marshmallow.

Additionally, the instructions are very clear about using fresh eggs, and whipping enough, so as to get a pristine white confection. That snowy characteristic was seen as what one should strive for with marshmallows.

The final ingredient is orange water for flavor.  I personally like rosewater but no one else in the house does. So I went with orange blossom flower. I did have a bit of trouble finding it but eventually found it in the cocktail section of my grocery store. It can also be ordered online.  The marshmallow then tasted like soap. So I also made an unflavored batch. This also let me tell if the offending marshmallow root flavor would show through.

Once I had gathered all the ingredients, it was time to start the recipe.

First, I made a batch of the marshmallow extract, starting it the night before so it would be ready to go the following morning. One of the big differences here is that the instructions also say to boil the marshmallow root with the gum Arabic before straining it the entire mixture. The instructions were a little vague, but after consulting other recipes (and messing up two prior batches) it appears you should not strain the root out until you have dissolved the gum arabic. While cold infusion extracts mostly mucilage, cooking it also extracts the starches as well, which helped the marshmallow set properly.

Cook this mixture for about 30 minutes.

Next, use a cheesecloth or mesh sieve to strain out any lumps and the marshmallow root. And then cook to what we translated as “syrup.” I interpreted this as to mean hardball stage. It is going to look like a syrup the whole time, but you need it to be able to hold its form once cooked.

Once the liquid is at hardball stage, you use the whisk to beat in your eggs (already whipped to soft peaks) into the liquid and keep whipping the marshmallow and egg mixture. I found it easier to do with a handheld beater. But if you want to do it with a whisk, more power to you. Now, despite what the instructions say, do not drop it on the back of your own hand. It will hurt, you will get a burn, and you will think about it every time you see your hand.  Trust me on this one.

mmmm….marshmallow….

Another way I would describe the right consistency is to cook it until it holds its form and begins to leave a trail as the beaters move through it. You can also drop a little onto your marble/baking sheet to see how it holds up.

Once the pâte de guimauve has reached the proper consistency, the directions say to pour it onto a powdered marble slab. You can purchase this item at most kitchen stores or online, but I’m going to be honest, that is a waste of money. You can usually get a scrap piece of marble or granite at a lot of building materials recycling center, or contact a local countertop manufacturer. I found one for a mere $7 as opposed to $60 slabs found at boutique cooking stores. This will get you a thicker piece, for a lower price. The reason you use marble or granite is that it remains cool and helps the mixture set quickly.

Finally, pour the marshmallow onto a slab that has been coated in powdered starch or powdered sugar. Top it with more starch and let cool on the slab for at least six hours. The large hunk should then be cut into squares and served. Alternately, you can pipe individual pieces onto or marble slab, or onto parchment paper, though the parchment paper will take more time to cool. 

Finally, pour the marshmallow onto a slab that has been coated in powdered starch or powdered sugar. Top it with more starch and let cool on the slab for at least six hours. The large hunk should then be cut into squares and served. Alternately, you can pipe individual pieces onto or marble slab, or onto parchment paper, though the parchment paper will take more time to cool. 

You will then have your 19th-century French marshmallows! Pate de guimauve will not remind you very much of a modern marshmallow in texture. It is noticeably softer and malleable, and does not hold its shape after being cut. I would recommend piping individual pieces instead of one large sheet so a skin forms on them for easier consumption. The flavor is much more similar to a modern marshmallow, however in the batches I made without an added flavor, It was noticeably earthy.  I enjoyed it, but I can see how others might not.

EDIT: Pâte de guimauve can also be translated as Pâté de guimuave. This changes the name meaning from “dough of marshmallow” to “paste of Marshmallow” and the pronunciation from ‘pat’ to ‘pat-ey’. Pâte de uimauve, or “dough of marshmallow” seems to be the correct translation, although arguably either is an accurate description.

Classic Pâte de Guimauve (Gelatin Free Marshmallow)

Translation of a French Pate De Guimuave recipe from the 1800s. Lovingly translated by Mama Nichols. It creates a light fluffy confection almost exactly like a modern marshmallow. Additionally, this recipe contains no gelatin, making it suitable for vegetarians, though not vegans as it contains eggs.  If you don’t like orange water you can omit, or sub for a different flavor.

This is the original recipe, translated. Any added instructions are italicized.

Cook time: Way too long

Servings: Way too many (We recommend halving the recipe), I recommend halving or quartering the recipe

Ingredients

·       125 grams marshmallow root (cleaned of all dirt) (or 31.25 grams dried)

·       1000 grams gum Arabic (very white)

·       1000 grams white sugar

·       2000 grams filtered water

·       12 egg whites

·       90 grams orange flower water

Instructions

1.     Soak the clean marshmallow root in water for 12 hours. Do not squeeze the roots. Drain the soaking water into a medium saucepan.

2.     Warm the soaking water. Break the gum Arabic into small pieces and melt them in the warmed liquid. Bring the gum arabic and marshmallow liquid to a low boil. It will take about 10-15 to dissolve all of the gum arabic. Stir consistently.

3.     Place sugar into a large, wide saucepan. Strain the gum arabic liquid through fine cheesecloth into the pan.

4.     Whip the egg whites to soft peaks with a wire whisk. Add the orange flower water.

5.     Simmer gently over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, until the liquid is reduced to the consistency of extract (syrup?). Bring to a simmer, and cook until hardball stage is reached.

6.     Using the whisk, in portions, add the whipped egg whites to the liquid. Continue to mix with rapid strokes until all the egg whites are incorporated and the mixture forms a paste that no longer clings to the wooden spatula and when a bit is dropped on the back of the hand, it doesn’t stick. I recommend using an electric hand beater to keep beating once all egg whites have been added.

7.     Remove from the heat.

8.     Dust a flat marble surface with a layer of powdered starch. Pour the marshmallow paste onto the starch-covered marble. Cover with more powdered starch or powdered sugar.

Notes from the recipe:

·       The whiteness of the candy depends on the freshness of the eggs, the quantity of air introduced during the whipping (“introduced by the accelerated movement of a wicker broom,” which I interpret to be a wire whisk), and by sustaining rapid whipping until the time that the paste/batter no longer clings to the whisk.

·       Almost always, to have the whitest candy, “we remove the marshmallow root and dissolve the gum Arabic and sugar in pure water.”

Stay Puffed My Friends Part 1: Egypt

Starting as a delicacy designated exclusively for ancient Egyptian royalty, the marshmallow has developed into one of the most widely consumed treats available.  What cold winter’s hot cocoa or summer campfire would be complete without some of the white fluffy stuff? It isn’t just the sugary sweet taste that people cling to, it’s the sentimentality that comes with it. In the words of Ray Stantz, from the classic film Ghostbusters, the marshmallow is “…something I loved from my childhood. Something that could never, ever possibly destroy us.” Considering the enduring love for these squishy white confections, it’s amazing how little the current treat resembles its original form.

The Plant

The marshmallow has changed its shape many times since its inception. Perhaps the biggest change is that the marshmallow treat today does not actually contain any marshmallow plant. Yes, there is a marshmallow plant; no it does not grow marshmallows. Its Latin name is Althaea Officinalis and is a member of the Malvaceae family. As a group, plants in this family are called “mallows.” The mallow family includes more than four thousand species of herbs, shrubs, and trees. Hollyhock and hibiscus are both members of the mallow family. Althaea Officinalis grows primarily in marshy wetlands, which is how it got its name, marshmallow.

Marshmallow Plant

Every portion of the marshmallow plant is edible. For example, the flowers, stems, and leaves can all be used to make salads. But the main portions of the marshmallow that are consumed are its root and leaves. This is because these parts contain medicinal properties that have been popular throughout history.

Beginning around 9th century BCE, the Greeks used marshmallows to heal wounds and soothe sore throats. A balm made from the plant’s sap was often applied to toothaches and bee stings. The plant’s medicinal uses grew more varied in the centuries that followed: Arab physicians made a poultice from ground-up marshmallow leaves and used it as an anti-inflammatory. The Romans found that marshmallows worked well as a laxative, while numerous other civilizations found it had the opposite effect on one’s libido. By the Middle Ages, marshmallows served as a treatment for everything from upset stomachs to chest colds and insomnia. (Mental Floss)

Marshmallow could be used for just about anything. Both the ancient Greek physician Dioscorides and the Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder used marshmallows in similar ways. Dioscorides describes marshmallows as useful “boiled in melikraton [honey wine] or wine or chopped on its own, it works against wounds, tumors of the parotid gland, swellings in the glands of the neck, abscesses, inflamed breasts, inflammations of the anus, bruises, swellings, tensions of the sinews…it worked also against dysentery, blood loss, and diarrhea” (Hippocratic Recipes 264). Marshmallow was so popular for treating ailments, its name Althaea is the Greek word for “healer.” Officinalis is medieval Latin used to describe botanical plants used for medicine and herbalism. Its botanical name literally means “healing medicinal plant.”

 In traditional Chinese medicine, marshmallow is used to treat coughing, edema, the common cold, and bronchitis (Me & Qi). The thought is that the marshmallow plant helps to cool the blood, helping to clear inflammation and infection, which makes it useful for treating all these maladies. European and other western cultures have similar ideas about marshmallow’s effectiveness. Marshmallow is thought to contain chemicals that help heal and decrease inflammation. It is thought to coat and create a protective layer on parts of the body it is applied to (Web MD). The marshmallow root, in particular, contains a mucilaginous sap that, when ingested, creates a protective coating. It is this extracted sap that was used to form the original marshmallow candy and hold the confection together.

Origins in Ancient Egypt

 The original marshmallow confection dates back to 2000 BCE in ancient Egypt. There are multiple references to a mallow candy being made for the consumption exclusively for the royalty and gods. This limited consumption is likely due to the excessive amount of labor and expense incurred when producing the confection.

Little is known about the process that went into making the original marshmallow. There are a few records that tell us what ingredients were used. We know the ancient Egyptians would extract the sap from a marshmallow plant. Different sources say this was done by “squeezing,” (National Confectioners Association) but this is probably not likely, as the marshmallow mucilaginous sap is extracted from its roots, and even freshly harvested the roots would not have provided much liquid. It would have been similar to trying to squeeze the juice from a portion of ginger without modern-day equipment. It is more likely that the roots were crushed, and then soaked and boiled to extract the sap.

We know that the sap was mixed with honey to form the base of the treat, and to sweeten it. We also know that nuts and sometimes grains were added to the confection. There is no indication of how these would have been combined, such as if the grains or nuts would have been ground, forming more of a cake-like texture, or added whole, having the honey and marshmallow form a sort of brittle. In fact, descriptions of the texture of the confection vary. Some sources refer to the confection as a “gooey treat,” whereas others refer to it as a cake. But the truth is, we just don’t know.

One source postulates that the Egyptian marshmallow was the precursor to the Mediterranean candy "halva." The term in America is most commonly used to refer to a chewy candy made from nut butter or ground grain and sweetened with sugar or honey (Yesterdish).  However, halva is also a word that can be used to describe a range of sweets, from pressed cake to brittle to filled cake-like confections. (The Oxford Companion to Food). The oldest written recipe for halva is in the early 13th century Arabic Kitab al-Tabikh (The Book of Dishes), making it 3300 years after the earliest known documentation of Egyptian marshmallows. That being said, I think it is very possible that the Egyptian marshmallow was, if not a precursor, a version of what we now call halva. We know that Egyptian marshmallows and halva contained similar ingredients: honey, nuts/seeds, and sometimes grain. We also know that some older recipes for halva did include marshmallow plant extract in them. But while it’s possible that marshmallow and halva developed together, that doesn’t help us determine what was the consistency of the original marshmallow.

The Re-creation

This was an interesting recipe to try to emulate. As I mentioned, there are no existing recipes for the sweet marshmallow confection that the ancient Egyptians ate. We know what ingredients were used: marshmallow root and honey mixed with nuts, seeds, grains, and fruits. We know some sources refer to it as a “halva,” but we also know that “halva” can be a term used to define a variety of desserts. The delicacy has been described as a cake, a brittle, and a chewy confection. We really don’t know what style of treat it was. While this makes things even more difficult, it also gave more opportunities for interpretation.

First, I considered doing a honey taffy, such as this one. One of the oldest forms of candy was created by taking honey, boiling it, and letting it dry into a taffy-like consistency. This would be appropriate in terms of ingredients, but I wasn’t convinced this was exactly what the ancient Egyptians were creating. Further research showed there were many kinds of honey treats consumed by the Egyptians. Often these were formed into balls and mixed with nuts and grains. I completely encourage anyone who wants to, to incorporate marshmallow root into one of these traditional candies. Still, it seemed like adding the marshmallow extract to the taffy without some other binder could go wrong at several steps and wasn’t likely how the ancients incorporated it, given their technology.

 Next, I considered halva. As discussed, halva can refer to a variety of confections, but for simplicity’s sake, I am using “halva” to refer to the tahini candy. In a basic halva recipe, you have three ingredients: sugar, water, and tahini. At first glance, you could simply swap the water for an infused marshmallow liquid. But we know the marshmallow candy used honey, not sugar. When making honey halva, you typically don't add liquid. It would require more effort to create a new cooking time, and properly boil the honey and liquid down to the softball stage. And frankly, I don’t like tahini or halva that much and therefore didn’t want to put in the extra effort.

Finally, I landed on a honey marshmallow nougat. Nougat is an ancient sweet, similar to a meringue. Both of their bases come from sugar syrup and egg whites. A nougat, however, has a much higher sugar to egg white ratio than a meringue. Because of this, nougat tends to be much chewier than its meringue cousin. Nougat also is not baked when turned into candy. Nougat predates the meringue by at least several hundred years; the first baked meringue recipe does not show up until the 1600s. Versions of nougat are thought to have originated in North Africa and Egypt, including some with sesame seeds.  In fact, they resemble halva and match all of the points we know about Egyptian marshmallows. While it is said that many of the middle eastern recipes for nougat did not contain eggs, written recipes dating back to the 15th century include eggs, and Roman recipes dating back to the first century do, as well. 

 There are two main methods for making a nougat. The first is the modern method, of bringing a sugar syrup to soft ball stage, pouring the molten sugar over your whipped egg whites, and beating until completely formed. This tempers the eggs, making them safe to eat and hold their shape. While this method is a bit temperamental, it only takes about 15 min to make. This, however, would make things far too easy, so of course, this is not the process that I used.

I applied a traditional method of bringing the sugar syrup to soft ball stage, then using a whisk to slowly add in the egg whites. Using this method, you then cook and stir your nougat for 45 or more minutes. It is time- and labor-intensive but it is the way ancients would have done it.

In my first attempt at this method of making nougat, I did not boil long enough because the baby woke up from his nap. I thought it would be fine. It was not fine. I ended up with a much more caramel like consistency. So I decided to turn the failed nougat into filling for chocolates.

Yummy Marshmallow Nougat Chocolates

It took multiple more attempts (and trips to the store for more ingredients) before I figured it out. Slow and steady is the name of the game. The ingredients are simple: egg whites, honey, marshmallow extract, and the fruit and nut of your choice. But if you try to rush the process, you will not end up with a complete product.

At the end of the week I ended up with numerous batches of nougat, but finally found a recipe I was happy with. This nougat looked and tasted different from any nougat I had ever had before. I found that the addition of the marshmallow makes the nougat a little spongier, I personally very much enjoyed it. Marshmallow nougat also retains a darker amber color when compared to a traditional honey nougat, which lightens as you cook it. The marshmallow nougat was a resounding hit and we found good loving bellies for all the batches I made (even the chocolate one).

Traditional honey nougat on left, marshmallow honey nougat on right

Honey Marshmallow Nougat

Based on the descriptions of the original marshmallow candy from ancient Egypt, this recipe combines a traditional honey nougat and extract of the marshmallow plant. It is light, fluffy, and sweet, with a touch of earthy flavor.

Servings: 20 small pieces   

Prep and cook time: literally an entire day

Ingredients:

• 1 Tbsp dried marshmallow root

• 1 Cup of water

• ½ lb honey

• 2 Egg whites

• ½ lb Nuts or dried fruit of choice, warmed

Instructions:

1.     Combine 1 cup water and 1 tablespoon marshmallow root in a sealable jar. Let sit overnight, or for at least 12 hours. (Infusion will last in the fridge for at least 3 days.)

2.     Prepare the pan. Line an 8”x8” baking tin with parchment paper. Grease the parchment paper, OR have a layer of powdered sugar, OR you can place a piece of edible wafer/rice paper on top of the parchment. (Note: this is NOT the same as rice paper wrappers.)

3.     Strain your infusion through cheesecloth or through a loss leaf tea filter, removing all root solids.

4.     Spread your mix-ins on a tray and place it in an oven at 250 to keep warm.

5.     Place marshmallow infusion on the stovetop, and bring to a rolling boil on high to reduce some of the extracted liquid. This will take about 5 min.

6.     Once the marshmallow extract is reduced, turn the heat down to medium-low and add your honey. Heat honey until it is completely liquid. (Note: This is a good recipe to use older honey that has started to crystallize, as you are heating it completely anyway.)

7.     While honey is heating, separate your egg whites. (Note: I separated the egg whites, and froze the yolks to be used at a later date. Waste not, want not!)

8.     Whip egg whites to soft peaks; set aside. I did this part by hand with a whisk, but feel free to use an electric beater.

9.     Once the honey is completely liquefied, turn the heat down to low. Using your whisk, add in dollops of whipped egg whites, beating them in hot honey syrup to incorporate evenly. Continue until all egg whites are incorporated.

10.  Using a wooden or silicone spatula, stir the mixture continuously on low for 45-50 minutes. The mixture will begin to thicken and hold its shape when stirred. Cook until a small amount of the mixture – maybe ½ teaspoon – holds its shape when dropped into a bowl of cold water.

11.  Add the warmed nuts. The nuts must be warm, or your nougat will harden too quickly. Keep cooking for another 3-5 minutes, mixing ingredients in.

12.  Remove pan from heat, and dump contents of the pot into your prepared tin.

13.  Add another layer of greased parchment paper, or powdered sugar or wafer paper and another layer of parchment paper. Press down firmly, creating a smooth layer of nougat.

14.  Let sit and cool for 2-3 hours.

15.  Save until ready to ready to serve, then cut into squares and enjoy a treat of the ancient Egyptian royal court.